Peugeot Boxer L2H2 family van conversion

Vanlife
Written By Bryony Melhuish

Our first van was a Vauxhall Vivaro, we converted it into a basic camper with no running water or electrics and lived in it for a short while before closing on our first cottage. We spent 6 years going on adventures in the UK and Europe and took our new baby with us on our last few trips before deciding it was time for a bit bigger van!

Jump to a section:

Stage 1: Prep
Stage 2: Finalise design
Stage 3: Cutting holes, fixing seats & sound proofing
Stage 4: Floor
Stage 5: Ikea SKORVA bed hack
Stage 6: Fitting the MaxxAir MaxxFan Deluxe
Stage 7: Installing solar panels & insulation
Stage 8: Diesel Heater installation
Stage 9: Electrics

The day we got it!

First dinner in the van (Fish & Chips of course)

Why a Peugeot Boxer L2H2?

We chose the Peugeot Boxer L2H2 for a few key reasons. First, Harri needed a van for his business, but it also had to be versatile enough for family adventures. The L2H2 struck the right balance—it’s spacious enough for both work and travel while still compact enough to fit within our limited parking space. A long wheelbase was out of the question, so this size was the next best option.

We also considered the Citroën Relay and Fiat Ducato, as they share many interchangeable parts with the Boxer, which makes future repairs easier and more affordable. However, finding a van of this size with the right features was challenging, and it took time to plan the best layout for both our family and business needs. Hopefully, our experience helps other families navigating a similar journey!

Our Design Requirements

  • 5 Seater van (3 in the front 2 in the back with chest belts and isofix points)

  • Sleeping arrangements for 4

  • Removable bed and back seats to use as work van and accommodate ton bags

  • Windows + lots of natural light

  • Basic electrics (lights, charging points, fridge, fan and heater)

  • Solar panels

  • Large garage area

  • Roof rack and ladder

Stage one: Prep

We began by removing the ply lining and floor, setting them aside to reuse later. Fortunately, we didn’t uncover any major issues—just a few minor rust spots and screw holes from where the floor had been fixed. To tackle the rust, we used a drill with a wire brush attachment and sanded down the affected areas. We then primed them with Hammerite Red Oxide before finishing with Hammerite Smooth White.

For the screw holes, we used JB Weld, which came highly recommended by other van converters for its ease of use. After reading a few reviews online, we were convinced it was the right choice. Once the holes were smoothed down, we filled and painted them.

A tip we picked up from a Facebook group was to check the door rail, a common area where water can seep behind and cause rust due to metal-on-metal contact. Although ours wasn’t in bad shape, we treated the affected spots and placed a cut-up bicycle inner tube behind the rail to prevent future rubbing. To further safeguard against water, we applied Sikaflex above the rail for an extra layer of protection.

Shopping list

Lifting up the floor, cleaning, filling and prepping screw holes from where it was fixed down

Blank canvas!

Stage two: Finalise design

Before we even got the van, we had already started discussing the design and creating mood boards, but we didn’t finalise the layout until after purchasing the rear seats. We opted for Ford Transit Custom modular seats with integrated seat belts and ISOFIX points. These seats can fold flat or fold forward, offering the option to convert them into a bed or have more floor space. They’re also removable thanks to their quick-release feature. We chose them for their family-friendly design and the flexibility they provide—perfect for switching between work mode and different adventures, depending on how many people we need to accommodate.

Over several weeks, we experimented with the physical layout to ensure it was the best fit for our family. We created scaled floor plans and used the online tool "Plan Your Van" to visualise the space in 3D. While the tool wasn’t entirely accurate, it gave us a good sense of how much room each element would take up.

Once we had the layout nailed down, we shifted our focus to the electrical system. To get started, we booked a consultation with Tom from Tiny Build Electrics to help us plan the best approach for this crucial part of the build.

Resource List

Mood board for inspiration and rough layout ideas

Stage three: Cutting holes, fixing seats & sound proofing

This is where things started to get exciting (and a little scary)! We installed three windows in the van, and to our surprise, it was a fairly straightforward process. We used the drill-hole method followed by a rough cut to access both sides of the panel when cutting with the jigsaw—a technique that worked really well. Upgrading to a cordless jigsaw proved to be a good move, making the job much easier and more efficient for future tasks. Each window came with one tube of bonding, but we picked up an extra just in case, which proved to be a good call as we ended up needing it. The last thing we wanted was to run out of supplies mid-project!

For the rear seat installation, a friend came to help, as this was definitely a two-person job. We had to drop the exhaust to install the spreader plates underneath. While many people raise the floor to align their rear seats with the front, we opted to keep the floor level throughout the back since it's primarily a work van. This gives us more usable space when the seats aren’t in use—though time will tell if it was the right choice!

We also removed the bulkhead and began soundproofing. We used Deadsound, which turned out to be a fantastic product and one of the best value options on the market. It’s peel-and-stick, making it incredibly easy to apply, and we’re already noticing the difference in noise reduction!

Shopping list

Pilot holes to cut round

Dad helping remove the first piece

Ember showing us where the seats will be

Seats in situ

Shopping for supplies

Peek-a-boo!

Stage four: Floor

When installing the floor, we wanted to avoid drilling more holes in the van than necessary, so we used Sikaflex to glue the battens down. We opted for treated roof timbers for the battens, filling the gaps with Celotex insulation and sealing the joins with foil tape. We also strategically placed the battens where we plan to install interior storage and the bed, ensuring we’ll have a solid foundation to fix those pieces when the time comes.

For the top layer, we reused the plywood floor that originally came with the van, laying vinyl tiles over it. Although vinyl tiles are heavier than linoleum or standard laminate, they’re extremely durable and waterproof—ideal for a work van and a family that enjoys water-based activities. In our previous van, we had lino flooring, but it dented and tore easily, so we opted for something more hardwearing this time around.

Shopping list

Snack break

Batons down with Celotex in between

Foil tape over all the joins for vapour barrier

Subfloor down using original ply from the van

Vinyl tile floor

Flooring finished!

Stage five: Ikea SKORVA bed hack

We know building a van takes time, but getting on the road was a priority, so our next focus was installing the bed. In our previous van, we had a slide-out bed, but it stayed in the "out" position most of the time, so for this build, we opted for a fixed bed. The benefits of a fixed bed are that it's always ready when you arrive at camp, provides more storage space in the garage area, and allows you to use standard-size frames and mattresses, keeping costs low. Plus, it's quicker and easier to build. The downside, especially in smaller vans, is losing some living space.

Fortunately, a double mattress fits perfectly across the back of our van, so we designed the bed dimensions around that. We chose Ikea SKORVA beams for the frame because they’re lightweight, easy to install, and can be lifted out later if needed. They're also adjustable, making it simple to modify the width. With the right tools, the installation should only take a couple of hours.

We used a rivet nut gun to fix the brackets in place. This was our first time using one, but it made the job quick and easy—and it’s a tool we’ll definitely use for other parts of the van. Instead of fixing the brackets directly to the van’s cross beams, we added timber to raise the bed a few extra inches for more clearance. We spaced the brackets evenly to accommodate the three SKORVA beams, which slotted neatly into place without the need for additional fixings. After spacing out the slats evenly, we screwed in a few for extra security.

Eventually, we’ll add side panels to keep the mattress from shifting, but for now, we’re road-ready with a simple and sturdy bed!

Shopping list

  • 3 x Ikea SKORVA beams

  • 6 x Ikea SKORVA brackets (you can find these on ebay)

  • Bed slats (we just used from an old ikea bed, you can often pick up for cheap on facebook marketplace or make your own)

  • Rivet nut gun (Amazon)

Using the rivet nut gun to create fixings

Testing how strong the beams are (or myself rather 😅)

Beams slotted into the brackets

Voila! Looking forward to some family movie nights up here!

We used bed slats and matress from an Ikea double bed we already had

Stage six: Fitting the MaxxAir MaxxFan Deluxe

With a few days of good weather ahead, we decided it was time to install the MaxxAir MaxxFan Deluxe. Having stayed in vans equipped with this fan and hearing great reviews, we did minimal research into alternatives and chose to go for it. We opted to place it at the front of the van where the roof already had a flat surface, making it easier to cut the necessary hole. To allow for the fan's movement, we removed the front roof bar.

It's crucial to plan the entire roof layout before cutting anything, especially in an L2 van where space is limited if you also plan to install solar panels.

We followed Greg Virgoe’s method from his YouTube channel. First, we built a wooden frame and cut the hole, taping a bag inside the van to catch metal shards. After cutting, we filed the edges and applied Hammerite to protect the exposed metal. We then used mastic sealing tape to secure the frame and screwed it down, ensuring a watertight seal. To further seal the installation, we applied Sikaflex 522 around the frame and over the screw heads before assembling the top of the fan.

The installation was straightforward, though getting the measurements and location right is key—you definitely don’t want to make a mistake here!

Since installing, we've had heavy rain with no leaks, so we can confidently recommend using the mastic sealing tape method. We also re-measured the van’s height post-installation to avoid any mishaps under low bridges!

Shopping list

Wooden frame to fix on underside of roof

Drilling pilot holes to then cut the hole out with a jigsaw

Sticking mastic tape round the edges to screw the frame down on top

Lining things up

Wooden frame fixed with Sikaflex and the fan frame screwed down into it from the top

Sealing the edges and screwholes before popping on the lid

Stage 7: Installing solar panels and insulation

With the Maxxfan installed, the next step was to tackle the solar panels. After reviewing several options, we decided on the Victron Energy 175W-12V Mono Solar Panels (1485x668x30mm, series 4a). These panels offered the perfect width and allowed us to install one on each side of the roof bars. The installation process was smooth and took just a day to complete.

Before moving on to roof insulation, we tested for leaks around the mounting brackets where the panels were secured. For insulation, we used Deadsound Thermal SD, which has a convenient adhesive backing. When we start battening out the van, we’ll add a layer of Celotex along with recycled fleece insulation to ensure optimal warmth and energy efficiency.

Shopping list

  • 2 x Victron Energy Solar Panel 175W-12V Mono 1485x668x30mm

  • Deadsound Thermal SD

Checking the panels over - make sure you do this with any deliveries as soon as they arrive if you are going to be storing them for a bit!

Laying everything out to double check positioning

Stage 8: Diesel heater

When researching diesel heater options, we noticed a wide price range between budget and premium models. After weighing the reviews, we aimed to strike a balance between quality, cost, and how often we’d actually use it. We settled on the Autoterm 2KW 2D, which seemed perfect for making our van usable year-round.

We opted to mount the heater under the driver’s seat, an area that would otherwise go unused. This location also allowed us to tap directly into the van's fuel tank, saving us from having to install a separate tank and taking up valuable space. For added convenience, we upgraded to the comfort controller, which has a digital display and automatically adjusts when the temperature drops. However, the standard cable it came with was too short, so we purchased an extension cable to mount the controller near the bed. Now we can easily turn up the heat on chilly mornings without leaving the warmth of our blankets!

Removing the driver’s seat made access much easier, as some parts of the installation were a bit tricky. To avoid the risk of draining the fuel tank, we connected the fuel line to the bottom of the tank. Eventually, we'll box in the front section and run the ducting out the front to distribute the heat down the center of the van. We’re excited to stay cozy during winter trips and enjoy the van all year long!

Shopping list

  • Autoterm 2KW 2D

  • Comfort controller

  • Cable extension for comfort controller

Diesel heater location under drivers seat

It works!

Stage 9: Electrics

This was the part of the build we’d been dreading the most. To give ourselves enough time to tackle the electrical system, we set aside an entire week to focus on the job. We used Tiny Build Electrics to design a setup tailored to our needs. They provided all the necessary parts and a detailed wiring diagram, saving us hours of research and guesswork. They also have a WhatsApp community which proved to be helpful for questions along the way.

Our plan was to install the electrical system in the van's "garage" area, over the wheel arch. However, we quickly realised there wasn’t enough space for all the components. To solve this, we mounted some pieces on the back of what will become the box seat divider between the bed and the rest of the van, which ended up working out perfectly as this would have otherwise been dead space.

We started by cutting a board to size and laying out all the parts to visualise how they would fit. It took some time to familiarise ourselves with the various components and arrange them in a logical order for wiring. For added safety, we used aluminum plates behind critical units like the SmartSolar charge controller, DC/DC charger, and Lynx Power In units.

Once everything was laid out, we secured the components and connected them all together before mounting the board in the van, which made the wiring process much easier.

Shopping list

  • Tiny Build Electrical system

  • 18mm Ply boards

  • Aluminium plates

Planning out our board

Both boards in place (will eventually build a cupboard)

Fixing components in place

Well earned piece of cake

 

To be continued!…

 

What has helped us with our build so far

Bryony Melhuish

Creative brand + web studio for businesses that want to go place.

https://www.shiiftcreative.com
Next

Where to start with converting a van into a camper: tips from a professional