2 Weeks in North Wales
When: June 2023
Where: North Wales
Wales offers endless opportunities for those seeking adventure of any size. Whether you are doing Vanlife, pitching a tent or staying in an Airbnb, Wales promises to deliver natural beauty, luscious landscapes and plenty of fresh air.
1. Llyn Geirionydd circular walk & wild swim
About: Llyn Geirionydd is a hidden gem within Snowdonia National Park and is the perfect place to bring the family for a casual outing. The circular walk around the lake is well-marked and easy under foot (Harri did it in flip flops). The shoreline is very accessible and close to the parking – you can swim, kayak and paddle board on the lake.
How to get to Llyn Geirionydd: There is car park at the southeastern end of the lake. It’s free to park and there are picnic areas, toilets and baby changing facilities. From the car park, you can set off in either direction around the lake. The trail is wide and waymarked all the way through. On the eastern side of the lake, it’s a broad country lane; on the western side, a public footpath. We chose to do our swim round the other side of the lake where it was very quiet (we only saw one other couple whilst walking).
Eastern side of Llyn Geirionydd
Flo’s first wild swim
Western side of Llyn Geirionydd
Things to note: The road to get there is pretty narrow in places and very windy and steep. We were in our Vauxhaul Vivaro van and found it manageable but you might want to double check if you have a motorhome before you go. Overnight parking is not permitted.
2. Watkin Path waterfalls & plunge pools
About: The Watkin Path is one of the routes you can take to reach the summit of Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales. It’s typically one of the tougher and therefore less crowded ways to hike up Snowdon however it’s stunning waterfalls and blue plunge pools do attract the crowds in good weather so if you want them to yourself, like us, be sure to get up early! The path offers variety with stunning scenic views along the way should you continue to the top.
How to get to Watkin Path: Park at Pont Bethania car park (£6 per day or £3 for up to four hours and also has toilets). There is also a free parking option in a spacious layby nearby, though it's worth noting that these spots tend to fill up quickly, particularly on a nice day. The Watkin path starts across the road at the stone staircase. Simply follow the Watkin Path up the hill through the woods and, after about 20 to 30 minutes walking, you'll see the waterfalls in front of you.
Stone bridge to cross over to the waterfalls
Scenic views of the valley
Wild Swimming in Watkin Path pools
Things to note: We had no phone signal in the area, which on previous trips has made it challenging to meet friends in the area. So be sure to communicate your plans of meeting up before you get to the area! If you are going to the summit, always plan ahead, check the weather, wear appropriate footwear and take a map.
3. Wild camp & wild swim at Llynnau Cerrig-y-Myllt
About: This is a stunning wild camping location is nestled between two small upland lakes - perfect for an evening dip.
How to get to Llynnau Cerrig-y-Myllt: While many start from the small village of Beddgelert, we chose a shorter route beginning at Nantmor Mountain Centre. Just past the centre, there is a small, free parking area. The walk to the lake took us about an hour, and along the way, you'll pass another beautiful lake (Llyn yr Arddu). Despite having to fend off a few midges, the effort was well worth it for the golden glow of the setting sun!
Flo in her Osprey Poco Lt backpack
Flo’s first wild camp
The first lake en route
Wild swimming in Llynnau Cerrig-Y-Myllt
Pitching the tent at sunset
Morning views
Things to note: Wild camping should be done responsibly to protect the natural environment and ensure that it remains accessible for future generations. Always follow the "Leave No Trace" principles, respect local regulations, and prioritise safety while enjoying the wilderness around Llynnau Cerrig-y-Myllt.
4. Croesor waterfalls mini walk & dip
About: This is a lovely, short trail (about 30mins) taking you along the river Croesor as it rushes through the woodland in Eryri National Park (Snowdonia). It’s an out and back walk so ideal for a quick dip or picnic to break up a journey.
How to get to the Croesor Waterfalls: The trail starts at Pont Garreg-Hyldrem, there is limited space for parking (2-3 cars) along the side of the A4085 road. Follow the path through the woodland, taking in wonderful scenery and the Croesor waterfalls.
Shallow cool pool
Banana break
Splash about for Flo
5. Porth Iago beach & campsite
About: Porth Iago is a beautiful beach and campsite located on the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, which is part of the Snowdonia National Park. It is known for its stunning natural beauty, pristine sandy beach, and tranquil surroundings. The beach is relatively secluded and less crowded compared to some of the more popular beaches in Wales, providing a peaceful environment.
How to get to Porth Iago beach and where to stay: You can only access the beach via the water (if you are paddling from elsewhere) or through the small campsite located on the cliff above the beach. It offers basic facilities for campers, including toilets and showers and has a small kiosk offering drinks and ice creams. In June 2023 it cost us £21 per night (plus £2.50 for a dog), you pay machine at the farm on the way to carpark. You don’t have to stay at the campsite to visit the beach but you will have to pay a parking fee for the day. We’ve been a couple of times and it’s always been nice and relaxed!
View of Porth Iago beach from the campsite above
Gorgeous evening swim in the clear waters
Making dinner whilst watching the sun go down
Things to note: The beach has 2 paths going down to it, they are sandy and fairly steep so good footwear is ideal and something to carry little ones down in would be handy!
6. Harlech beach
About: Harlech Beach is a stunning and popular coastal destination located in the town of Harlech, on the west coast of Wales, within the Snowdonia National Park. It is renowned for its natural beauty, sandy shores, and views of the imposing Harlech Castle. It’s a great place for a runaround and a dig in sand even on a blustery day.
How to get to Harlech Beach: The primary car park for Harlech Beach is by Royal St David’s Golf Club. If you are coming from Porthmadog direction you turn right just after the train station and school, down to the end of the road and turn right. It's the most common place to park when visiting the beach. It offers both pay-and-display parking and free parking for National Trust members. Be aware that during the summer and on weekends, it can get quite busy, so arrive early if possible. Bonus there was an ice cream van when we visited!
Harlech Beach sand dunes
Enjoying a Mr Whippy
Miles of sandy beach
Things to note: Dogs are only allowed on the southern section of the beach. Whilst the section is very vast this does not include the forest stretch. The dog restrictions apply April to end September.
7. Cadair Idris / Lyn Cau
About: A firm favourite of ours, Cadair Idris and the surrounding area is a must go. Cadair Idris, also known as Cader Idris or the Chair of Idris, is one of the most iconic mountains in Wales. It is located in Snowdonia National Park in the southern part of Gwynedd, a county in northwest Wales. It’s the second highest peak in the southern half of Snowdonia National Park, with an elevation of 893 meters (2,930 feet).
How to get to Cadair Idris / Lyn Cau: There are several hiking routes that lead to the summit of Cadair Idris, catering to hikers of different experience levels. The most popular routes include the Minffordd Path, the Pony Path, and the Fox's Path. Each route offers its own challenges and rewards, and all of them provide breathtaking views along the way. We parked at the Dôl Idris Car Park (£4 for 3 hours, or £6 for all-day parking). From here you have several options from a low level stroll which is accessible for wheelchairs and prams around the nature reserve or you can head up to Lyn Cau for some lunch or carry on up the Minffordd Path to the summit. Lyn Cau is one of the highlights of hiking Cadair Idris. The glacial lake is situated in a dramatic hollow on the eastern side of the mountain. The lake is surrounded by steep cliffs and is great for a swim in!
Low level nature reserve path
Wild swimming in Lyn Cau
Minffordd Path / Lyn Cau from above
Things to note: The Dôl Idris car park closes at midnight and no overnight parking allowed. Watch out for ticks if you have a dog - Ember picked up quite a few so be prepared with a kit to remove them while you are out.
8. Craig yr Aderyn (Bird Rock)
About: Bird Rock is a striking rock that stands prominently in the Dysynni Valley of Gwynedd. It attracts birdwatchers due to its unique characteristics and the diverse birdlife that inhabits it and offers a spectacular viewpoint for those who hike to its summit.
How to get to Bird Rock and where to stay: There is a small roadside parking area at the start of the path. It's a relatively short but steep walk, from the top you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and the coast. There are a couple of campsites near by where you can also walk from. We stayed at Bird Rock Campsite which was £20 per night. It’s a quiet and relaxed site with basic showers, toilets and drinking water. From the campsite you can walk along the river Dysynni to have a dip - it’s fairly shallow but we found a spot to have a paddle and cool off.
A short walk up the river from Bird Rock campsite
Bird Rock campsite
Enjoying some quiet family time
9. Wild camp & swim at Llyn Y Gadair
About: This stunning walk and wild camp is below the great mountain wall of Cadair Idris with stunning sunset views. There are two lakes, one at 410m (Llyn Gafr) and the other at 560m (Llyn Y Gadair). You take the Minffordd path up which is fairly easy under foot to the lake but there are several forks off which if you carry on go to the top of Cadair Idris so be sure to take a map and have the route planned out before you go. The lake is clear and perfect for an evening dip while the sun goes down.
How to get to Llyn Y Gadair: You can set off on the Minffordd path by parking at the Ty Nant car park which is a pay and display and also has toilets. Overnight parking is not permitted so you’ll have to park elsewhere if you want to wild camp - there are a couple of laybys near by or campsites you stay at. Just over the road from the carpark you will see a footpath sign where you follow the path through a small wooded area and up a ‘stone staircase’ before it turns into a smaller track.
Evening walk up to Llyn Gadair
Golden glow on the mountains
Evening wild swim in Llyn Gadair
Watching the sunset
MSR Elixer II Tent
Morning walk back down to the valley
A note on wild camping: Before planning a wild camping experience, it's crucial to check the local regulations and guidelines regarding wild camping in the area. Some places may have specific rules or restrictions to protect the environment and maintain the natural beauty of the region. ALWAYS pitch late, leave early and leave NO trace.
A note on walking in †he mountains: Remember that hiking in mountainous areas like Cadair Idris requires appropriate preparation, including checking weather conditions, wearing suitable clothing and footwear, and carrying sufficient food and water. As with any outdoor adventure, safety should always be a top priority. Don’t rely on your phone for directions always take a map and have a route planned out.
10. Picnic spot & paddle at Afon Rheidol, Aberystwth
About: This quiet spot by the river with a shingle beach is a great place to have a picnic and paddle in the water. The Afon Rheidol is a river located in Ceredigion, Wales. It flows through the Rheidol Valley, which is part of the larger region known as Mid Wales so not technically in the North but it was a good stop off on our way home!
How to get to Afon Rheidol: The closest landmark is The Magic of Butterfly House next to Cwm Rheidol Reservoir. Follow the small lane for about 4 miles past the butterfly house and the Rheidol Hydropower Plant until it eventually reaches a dead end where there is a small parking area right by this lovely spot. Whilst the parking is so close to the beach, trees shield it so you only see nature when you look around!
View from the waterfalls with shingle beach ideal for a picnic
Splash about for Flo
Fairly shallow in July but enough water to paddle and cool off in
Gear we couldn’t live without on our trip
Hiking poles: These were such a life saver for me especially when carrying Flo in the backpack. They are lightweight and compact and bonus they come in olive green - one of my favourite colours.
Link to get them from Decathalon here
Osprey Poco Lt Backpack: We tested out all the backpacks that were on offer and found this to be the best fit for both of us. I struggled with most of them as the back plates were so long however this one fit comfortably and was lightweight to start with. It comes with a sunshade and plenty of storage. The only thing missing from this backpack is a built in rain cover but you can purchase this separately. Don’t forget about Go Outdoors price match scheme, they will beat any online price in the UK by 10% - we saved a ton on the backpack by doing this!
Link to get it from Go Outdoors here
Flo’s Wetsuit: We were given this by a friend and it’s been so so good! It’s fleece lined so keeps her nice and cozy. It has a zip down the back so easy to get on and off too. There are both pink and blue ones depending on your colour preference.
Link to get it from Amazon here
Ergo Baby Omni 360 carrier: Whilst we used the Osprey Poco Lt for hiking, having the Ergobaby carrier for around town and around camp was essential. It’s much smaller and can be worn on front or back, it made it easier to sort out the van etc. There are plenty versions out there and you can pick one up from facebook marketplace or vinted to make it cheaper.
Link to get it from Ergobaby here
Baby Bumbo multi seat: Perhaps not your typical camping equipment but with a baby, we’ve found this to be a life saver at meal times. We picked ours up for a tenner from facebook marketplace and are still using it nearly a year on.
Link to get it from Bumbo here
MSR Elixer II tent: We LOVE this tent. It’s the perfect size for 2 adults and spacious enough to have your backpack inside too if you are not a giant. It’s lightweight and affordable and quick to set up.
